eNewMexican

Colorful treats

Holiday cookie recipes help illuminate season

By Becky Krystal

In this collection of holiday treats, you’ll find an eclectic, engaging array of cookies and confections. Seeking a traditional rolled and cut cookie to decorate? We have those. How about easy drop cookies that are both nostalgic and novel? They’re here, too. Gluten-free and vegan options? Check and check. You’ll find ingredients to appeal to many tastes, with recipes featuring chocolate, nuts, spices, dried fruit and more. There are treats that shimmer and sparkle, others draped in icing. They’re accessible and approachable, and even when a recipe asks you to go a step above, trust us that the effort is well worth it (and the offered alternatives are just as delicious).

Try one or try them all. Either way, be sure to share with your friends and family.

WHITE CHOCOLATE, ROSEMARY AND ALMOND BISCOTTI

Makes: 36 biscotti; total time: 2 hours 55 minutes These are my ideal biscotti. They’re full of intrigue, in flavor, texture and tone.

The best part about them is the white chocolate, which takes on a deep and sweet caramelized flavor during baking.

They’ll keep well for a while, about two weeks … if they last that long.

Storage notes:

The biscotti can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks, or frozen for up to 1 month. ⅔ cup whole blanched almonds (may substitute slivered almonds) 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1½ teaspoons fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped ½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt 1 cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest (from 1 orange)

11 tablespoons (1 stick plus 3 tablespoons) unsalted butter, at room temperature

3 large eggs, at room temperature, plus 1 large egg white, lightly beaten 4 ounces (or ⅔ cup) chopped white chocolate or white chocolate chips ½ cup chopped candied citrus peel, such as orange

Demerara sugar or sparkling sugar, for sprinkling

Preparation: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.

Arrange the almonds on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven for 10 to 12 minutes, until fragrant and lightly browned, shaking halfway through. Transfer to a plate or cutting board, let cool completely and then chop. (If using slivered almonds, they will toast faster — start checking at 6 or 7 minutes. You can leave them as is or coarsely chop.) Alternatively, you can toast the nuts in a dry skillet over low heat.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, rosemary and salt.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a large bowl and a handheld mixer, add the sugar and orange zest and beat on medium speed until very fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the butter and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition, and scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl in between. Reduce the speed to low, add the flour mixture and mix until incorporated. Mix in the chocolate, citrus peel and almonds until evenly distributed.

Scrape the sticky dough onto the prepared baking sheet and divide into three even portions, patting each into a rough log shape. Cover and refrigerate until firm, 1 hour.

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line another large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat.

Lightly flour your work surface and transfer the chilled dough onto it; lightly dust the top of the dough with more flour. Shape each piece into a log about 4 inches wide and ½-inch thick, dusting as needed to prevent sticking. Divide the logs between the lined baking sheets (replacing or wiping clean the parchment or silicone mat on the first pan, if needed) leaving a few inches of space between the logs on the sheet holding two.

Use a pastry brush to brush the tops with the beaten egg white, then sprinkle with demerara or sparkling sugar.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until just firm and golden, rotating the pans from top to bottom and front to back halfway through. Let the logs cool on the pans for 10 minutes, then transfer to a cutting board. Using a sharp serrated knife, slice into ½-inch thick pieces. Set them onto the sheet, cut side facing up, then return to the oven. Continue to bake for an additional 12 to 18 minutes, rotating from top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until golden brown all over.

Let the biscotti cool on the pans for a few minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely before serving or storing.

From Thalia Ho, author of Wild Sweetness: Recipes Inspired by Nature (Harper

Design, 2021).

RED VELVET SANTA HAT COOKIES

Makes: 36 to 54 cookies, depending on the cutter; total time: 2 hours 15 minutes Cookbook author Vallery Lomas channels the spirit of red velvet cake in these festive cookies. They can also be made in the shape of candy canes, Christmas stockings or whatever your favorite cookie-cutter shapes are. The yield will vary depending on the size and shape of your cookie cutter.

Red gel food coloring is more concentrated than liquid food coloring; but liquid food coloring can be used (the color will not be as bright).

Make ahead: The wrapped disk of dough can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

The finished cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 days, or frozen for up to 1 month. 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

¼ teaspoon fine sea or table salt ⅓ cup natural unsweetened cocoa powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

1⅓ cups granulated sugar 16 tablespoons (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 tablespoon red gel food coloring (see headnote)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

4 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped

Preparation: Line 2 large, rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. (You may need a third or may need to reuse one, depending on how many cookies you end up with.)

In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. Sift in the cocoa powder and baking soda, then whisk the dry ingredients together to aerate and combine.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a handheld mixer and a large bowl, combine the sugar and butter and mix on low speed for 1 minute, then increase to medium and beat until light and fluffy, an additional 2 to 3 minutes.

Stop the mixer and use a flexible spatula to scrape down the bottom and sides of the bowl and the paddle attachment. Still on medium speed, add the eggs, one at a time, ensuring each is thoroughly incorporated before adding the next, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl as needed. Add the food coloring and vanilla extract, and mix until the red dye is evenly dispersed.

Reduce the speed to low. Spoon in the flour mixture and mix until a dough forms and the batter is just combined. (If there are bits of flour at the bottom of the bowl, use a large, sturdy spatula to incorporate any remaining flour by hand.)

Lightly flour your work surface. Scrape the dough onto the work surface and gather the dough into a disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 3 days.

When ready to bake, lightly re-flour your work surface. Roll out the cookie dough to ¼- to ½-inch thickness. Using floured cookie cutters, cut out cookies, then transfer them to the prepared baking sheets, spaced 1 inch apart (they will not spread much). Reroll any scraps and repeat. Freeze the cookies for 15 minutes. (If your freezer is tight on space, you can freeze and then bake one sheet at a time, on the middle rack, or you can more tightly pack them on one sheet to freeze and then divide among multiple pans for baking.)

While the cookies are chilling, position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.

Bake the chilled cookies for 10 to 11 minutes, or until they are mostly dry to the touch but appear slightly puffed with crisp-looking edges, rotating from top to bottom and front to back halfway through. Remove from the oven, let cool for a few minutes, then transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.

Set a heatproof bowl over a pan with a few inches of simmering water, ensuring the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Add the white chocolate and stir occasionally until melted and smooth. Spoon the melted chocolate along the bottom and tops of the cookies to mimic the white fur of Santa’s hat (or decorate to suit whatever shape you’ve chosen). You can swirl with the spoon or a toothpick for extra texture. Return the bowl to the double-boiler if the chocolate starts to seize up, or sit the bowl in a larger bowl of tepid water to keep it fluid. Let the chocolate set on the cookies, about 5 minutes, before serving or storing.

From Vallery Lomas, author of Life Is

What You Bake It (Clarkson Potter, 2021).

CHEWY CRANBERRY COCONUT OATMEAL COOKIES

Makes: 23 cookies; total time: 4 hours An undeniable craving for warm spices and brown sugar immediately strikes when I see the first signs of the holiday season. Chewy cookies with a crisp exterior have always been my favorite texture, and holiday cookies are no exception.

This recipe is derived from an oatmeal raisin cookie that I have held onto since my very first internship in a professional kitchen in Boston. By adding a combination of brown sugar, walnuts, coconut, dried cranberries and a hint of cinnamon, I gave the original recipe a festive makeover.

Whenever people ask me for advice about baking, my answer is “start with high-quality ingredients.” For all cookie recipes, including this one, I recommend using European-style unsalted butter, such as Plugra or Beurre d’Isigny. European butter is typically churned longer and has a higher butterfat content compared to its American counterpart. The result is a cookie with an unmistakably richer flavor and a softer texture.

If you don’t have to serve all of the cookies at once, make sure to keep the unbaked scooped cookie dough in your freezer in an airtight container. You will be patting yourself on the back later for having a secret stash. When your kids are crying for a treat or you have a sweet tooth at midnight, you will be relieved to know that you are 16 minutes away from a freshly baked cookie.

Recipe notes: The scooped cookie dough can be frozen in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

The cookies are best eaten the day they’re made, but can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day. 1⅔ cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt About 3 cups old-fashioned rolled oats

About 1 cup sweetened shredded coconut

¾ cup dried cranberries

¾ cup roughly chopped walnuts 3 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract 16 tablespoons (2 sticks) unsalted butter, preferably European, at room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar Scant 1 cup packed light brown sugar

Preparation:

Line 2 large, rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cinnamon, baking soda and salt. In a large bowl, stir together the oats, coconut, cranberries and walnuts. In a liquid measuring cup, whisk together the eggs and vanilla.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a handheld mixer and a large bowl, beat the butter, granulated and brown sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Scrape the sides and the bottom of the bowl with a flexible spatula. Gradually add the egg mixture while continuing to beat on medium speed. Scrape down the bowl one more time and beat until the mixture is thoroughly combined. Add half of the flour mixture and beat on low speed until combined. Scrape down the sides and the bottom of the bowl and add the remaining flour mixture. Mix on low speed until just combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl once again and add half of the oats mixture. Mix on low until evenly distributed and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining oats mixture and mix on low until just combined.

Using a 2-ounce (No. 16) disher or a ¼-cup measuring cup, scoop the dough and form into a ball. (Each dough ball should weigh 65 to 70 grams.) Place the cookies onto one of the lined sheets. Don’t worry about spacing, as you’ll be separating them later to bake. Freeze, uncovered, for at least 3 hours. (If not planning to bake right away, transfer the frozen dough balls to a lidded container and freeze for up to 1 month.)

When the dough is almost done chilling, position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.

Equally space out up to 8 cookie dough balls on the second lined baking sheet. Bake for 8 minutes, then rotate the pan from front to back and bake for another 8 minutes, or until the edges are caramelized and the centers are puffy, but still a little pale and underbaked (the cookies will set during cooling). Let the cookies sit on the baking sheet until cool enough to handle, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining dough, making sure your baking sheet is cool before adding more dough.

From chef Aya Fukai of Aya Pastry in Chicago.

VEGAN EGGNOG COOKIES

Makes: 40 cookies; total time: 1 hour 20 minutes, plus at least

8 hours for soaking cashews These are my new go-to holiday cookies for their melt-in-your-mouth satisfaction. Christmas is my absolute favorite time of year, and for good reason. Every year, I start the season by making vegan eggnog. It’s now become a much-requested staple in my family, and what better way to continue the tradition than with eggnog cookies?

I love the flavor of it in these cookies that is then taken to the next level thanks to the eggnog in the icing. I highly recommend using the icing recipe for all your favorite holiday cookies, too — it’ll definitely amp them up.

One tip: Let these cookies sit for a few minutes on the sheet after they’re finished baking, and then let them cool completely on the wire rack.

The smell will be intoxicating and it’ll be difficult to resist, but I implore you to resist just a little bit longer. That short time allows the cookie to fully cook and the icing to set much better, too.

Recipe notes: The cashews for the vegan eggnog must be soaked overnight. The dough can be refrigerated for up to 2 days; let it sit on the counter for about 30 minutes before forming it into balls for baking. The dough balls can also be frozen on a baking sheet before being packed in an airtight container or zip-top bag and frozen for up to 1 month; if baking from frozen, increase the bake time for at least 3 minutes. The glaze can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.

The glazed cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 1 month. The vegan eggnog can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

For the vegan eggnog:

¼ cup raw cashews

1½ cups almond milk or another plant-based milk

⅓ cup cane sugar (may substitute packed light brown sugar)

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract

Pinch fine sea or table salt

For the cookies:

½ cup vegan eggnog (from above) 2 tablespoons flaxseed meal 3 generous cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ½ teaspoon fine sea or table salt

1 cup cane sugar (may substitute light brown sugar or granulated sugar) 16 tablespoons (2 sticks) vegan butter, softened

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the glaze

1 cup confectioners’ sugar, plus more as needed

2 tablespoons vegan eggnog (from above), plus more as needed (see variation)

Freshly grated nutmeg, for decoration (optional)

Make the vegan eggnog: Place the cashews in a small bowl, cover with water and let soak for at least 8 hours or overnight. The next day, rinse and drain.

In the pitcher of a blender, preferably a high-powered model such as a Vitamix, combine the soaked cashews, almond milk, cane sugar or light brown sugar, cinnamon, pumpkin pie spice, vanilla extract and salt. Blend until completely smooth and thoroughly combined, at least 3 minutes. The cashews should meld seamlessly into the eggnog, but you may have some particles left behind, depending on the strength of your blender. If so, you can pass it through a fine-mesh strainer to remove them (this is more important for the glaze than the cookies). You should get a generous 1½ cups.

In a small bowl, whisk together ½ cup of the vegan eggnog and the flaxseed meal, and let stand for at least 10 minutes to thicken. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a large bowl and a handheld mixer, beat the sugar and butter on medium speed just until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Do not overmix or your cookies might spread. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a spatula, add the flaxseed meal mixture and vanilla, and mix on medium for 1 more minute. Add the flour mixture in three additions, mixing on low until just combined, about 15 seconds each time; don’t overmix. Scrape down the bowl again and lift the dough to see if there are any dried bits of flour at the bottom. If there are, mix on low one more time. The dough should be thick enough to scoop with your hand, but will be soft and pliable.

Very lightly flour your hands, gather the dough into a ball and transfer to a medium bowl, cover with a kitchen towel and refrigerate until firmer, 15 to 20 minutes.

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line 2 large, rimmed baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Using a No. 60 disher or 1-tablespoon measuring spoon, scoop the dough into heaping 1-tablespoon portions, about 20 grams each, and roll them into a ball between your hands. Place on the lined baking sheets 2 inches apart.

Bake, one sheet at a time, for 12 minutes, or until slightly crisp on the outside and still soft on the inside. (If your kitchen is very warm, place the second tray in the refrigerator for a few minutes before baking.) The color will be light on top and slightly golden brown on the bottom. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets for about 5 minutes (don’t move them before that, as they’ll still be setting), then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, about 20 minutes.

Make the glaze: In a small bowl, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar and vegan eggnog until fully combined (see variation). Thicken with more confectioners’ sugar, or thin out with more eggnog, depending on the flavor and consistency you prefer.

Place a rack inside a rimmed baking sheet or on top of a piece of wax paper, to catch the glaze that drips.

Dip the top of each cooled cookie in the icing and return to the wire rack. Sprinkle lightly with the nutmeg, if using, and let rest until the glaze is firm to the touch, about 5 minutes. Serve, or transfer to an airtight container to store.

Variation: If you like, you can whisk the confectioners’ sugar with 1 tablespoon of the vegan eggnog and 1 tablespoon of rum or brandy until fully combined. If you use white rum, your glaze will be white; with dark rum or brandy your glaze may be beige.

From Jessica Hylton Leckie of the blog Jessica in the Kitchen.

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